PMID- 18494898 OWN - NLM STAT- PubMed-not-MEDLINE DCOM- 20100610 LR - 20080522 IS - 1468-2494 (Electronic) IS - 0142-5463 (Linking) VI - 25 IP - 4 DP - 2003 Aug TI - Skin-lightening products revisited. PG - 169-81 LID - 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00182.x [doi] AB - Skin colour typology depends on the amount and location of its chromophores. Among them, eumelanins derived from 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI), and phaeomelanins are of utmost importance. These biomolecules result from the multi-step enzymatic and non-enzymatic conversion of tyrosine into melanins. Pigmentation disorders are multiple and depend on alterations in the density in active melanocytes, and on specific abnormalities of any of the complex melanogenesis mechanisms. This review presents some of the main skin-lightening agents with respect to their mechanisms of action and side-effects. Some of the novel compounds may lead to new perspectives in the fields of dermatology and cosmetology. The methods commonly used to assess efficacy of skin-lightening products rely on in vitro models including cell-free enzymatic assays, melanocyte cultures and reconstructed epidermis bioassays. Animal models have little relevance. By contrast, human testing with the support of instrumental evaluations is the most informative. FAU - Petit, L AU - Petit L AD - Department of Dermatopathology, University Medical Center Sart Tilman, B-4000 Liege, Belgium. FAU - Pierard, G E AU - Pierard GE LA - eng PT - Journal Article PL - England TA - Int J Cosmet Sci JT - International journal of cosmetic science JID - 8007161 EDAT- 2008/05/23 09:00 MHDA- 2008/05/23 09:01 CRDT- 2008/05/23 09:00 PHST- 2008/05/23 09:00 [pubmed] PHST- 2008/05/23 09:01 [medline] PHST- 2008/05/23 09:00 [entrez] AID - ICS182 [pii] AID - 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00182.x [doi] PST - ppublish SO - Int J Cosmet Sci. 2003 Aug;25(4):169-81. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00182.x.